Page 82 - Журнал «Русский Берег» Сентябрь 2020
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                                                 ussian       oast |Сентябрь 2020

                                                       КУХНЯ | CUISINE



            A delicious story about the culinary attractions of Denizli from Elena Vorontsova, a culinary expert, Russian author
          who has written a book about Turkish cuisine.

            If you decide to go to Pamukkale, then your road will go near the   Six bodies of lambs are cooked at once in the tandoor in the
          town named Denizli. In that place, "pide" is a sweet, nutty dessert.   hot wood heat. Depending on the part of the meat carcass, more
          In Denizli, people at a wedding treat themselves to wheat porridge   precisely, the presence of bones and their size, pieces are cooked
          with meat, but not a simple one. The "keshkek" dish requires a   from 45 minutes to an hour and a half, and then during the day,
          special rite during cooking: some men, friends of the groom, cook   they are served to an endless stream of guests. The tables are never
          it all night, methodically, pounding the softened wheat grains with   empty here!
          a colossal pestle for hours. In that city, "tarhana" is not just a soup
          prepared according to at least five recipes, but also a hot meat dish.   The cooked meat is stewed in a hot tandoor throughout the day.
          For more than 500 years, Denizli has been producing "leblebi" —   The fat is melted, a tempting orange crust is formed on the pieces of
          roasted chickpeas.                                   meat that just melt in your mouth... That's what a real "lokom" is!

           They also came up with ice cream with hot halva — "Hacı Sherif".   Served "Denizli kebab" on soft flatbreads with red sour tomatoes
          And since then, this is the most famous and indefatigable "Helvaji" —   and onions cut into quarters. You can add salt, soak in ground
          a sweets seller — has been expanding the range and geography   cumin or sprinkle with local thyme if you wish. But many locals
          of his stores. Now he offers tahini ice cream. By the way, in Alanya,   prefer nothing. The main rule, which is carefully observed, is to eat
          you can also try hot halva with ice cream.           the kebab with your hands. Devices are not provided and are not
                                                               even served, don’t ask!
           On all balconies of Denizli, residents of the city dry an
          outstanding local variety of paprika "Kale Bieber", which in 2008   Not only I was amazed by the taste of "Denizli Kebab",
          received the geographical mark of the town of Kale. And what   but also by experienced chefs who came from Ankara, Izmir,
          thyme is here — "bilye kekik"! But the true king of Denizli cuisine   Antalya, Northern Cyprus. For the sake of this kebab alone, you
          is "Denizli kebap", which is a kebab cooked in tandoor. It is also   should come to Denizli or at least drop into the city when visiting
          called "tandür kebap". It is delicious, authentic, and natural. Of   Pamukkale — here you will find a whole street with the best kebabs
          course, this is a lamb kebab that is not older than nine months.   and kebabs — there are as many as 14 in one row, one after the
          Kebabchi Dursun spoke about the peculiarities of the local kebab,   other, and all are different.
          the technology of its preparation, serving and the rules of the meal.
          His establishment, open since 1982, is one of the best.
                                                                   The  cooked  meat  is  stewed  in  a  hot
                                                                  tandoor  throughout  the  day.  The  fat  is
           The peculiarity of this kebab is that it is prepared without a single
          spice, even without salt. The carcass is cut into eight parts, which are   melted, a tempting orange crust is formed
          put into the oven with pre-prepared charcoal in the morning. The   on the pieces of meat that just melt in your
          tandoor for cooking lamb meat is incredibly similar to the Russian   mouth... That's what a real "lokom" is!
          oven, only smaller in size.





































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