Page 69 - Журнал «Русский Берег» #9-2021

RUSSIAN COAST | № 1/9 2022 КУРОРТЫ ТУРЦИИ | RESORTS OF TURKEY

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ENG According to assumptions, Kars was founded in the IV century, but
certain references to it begin with the IX century. The city played
МАРТ an important role in the state, economic and social life of Armenia. Since the
2021 end of the XI century, Kars falls under the rule of Byzantium, then the Seljuks.
In the XII century, it was part of the Georgian Kingdom. In the XVI century,
the city was conquered by the Turks, making it the center of their influence
in Transcaucasia. Kars province is called the most Russian of the 81 Turkish
provinces. In 1878–1918, it was part of Russia, called the Kars region of the
Empire. The Russian period of the history of Kars, which left a deep imprint on
the architecture and development of the city, is associated with the Molokans
who lived here from Russia. Every local resident knows about them here and
remembers them with warmth. According to the Treaty of Kars in 1921, the city
goes to Turkey, which is now part of it.
ородок называется Карс. Странное назва- Olga Silaeva shares her first impressions of the city: "The town is called
ние, словно хруст снега. Мы въезжаем в город Kars. A strange name, like the crunch of snow. We enter the city and move
и движемся к центру. Ох, что это?! Не веря towards the center. Oh, what is it!? In disbelief, I look at the military barracks,
Гсвоим глазам, смотрю на военные казармы, as if transferred here from my native St. Petersburg. From around the corner,
как будто перенесённые сюда из родного Петербурга. I see something vaguely reminiscent of the Savior on Blood… But no, a
Из-за угла чудится что-то, неуловимо напоминающее mosque — two minarets are attached to the old church. There's another
Спас на Крови… Но нет, мечеть — к старинной церкви building "from St. Petersburg". I see a miniature St. Petersburg in black,
пристроены два минарета. Вон ещё здание «из Пите- miraculously surviving in the blocks of a typical Turkish building."
ра». Мне открывается миниатюрный Петербург в чёр- Olga is a traveler and blogger. For a long time, she worked as a tour
ном цвете, чудесным образом выживший в кварталах guide, accompanying tourists to Pamukkale and Cappadocia. He has
типовой турецкой застройки. been living and working in Kars for more than a year. Cooperates as an
Я принимаю неожиданное решение остаться в Карсе expert with various travel agencies. Helps organize excursions to Kars and its
на три дня. Друзья, смеясь, дают наставления: «Смотри surroundings for groups and independent travelers.
в оба, это тебе не Шавшат, тут ооочень нехорошие "There are cheese shops everywhere, so I decide to take a closer look
люди! В отель не ходи, ночевать будешь у наших зна- at one of them. With surprise, I read in the window: Kars Zavotlar ("Kars
комых». factories"). Wow, this is a word from the Russian language it's here!
I enter the store and look at the product. The salesman, who is also the
owner, asks where I am from. "Russian, I came from Alanya," I answer him.
He immediately points to one of the shelves with cheeses, stating that these
types of cheese" us "were taught to make "yours", and in general, all the
ГОРОД С РУССКОЙ ДУШОЙ production of local cheeses, you can say, is based on the knowledge and
skills obtained from the Russians. For some reason, I feel so good, as if I taught
Согласно предположениям, Карс был основан them how to make cheese myself.
в IV веке, но уверенные упоминания о нём начина- But how did it happen with the cheese? Why Russians? From where?
ются с IX века. Город играл важную роль в госу- After pouring a glass of tea, the owner of the cheese shop tells us that Kars
дарственной, экономической и общественной belonged to the Russian Empire for 40 years. That all these houses, which I
жизни Армении. С конца XI века Карс попадает admire, were built by the Russians from black basalt and black tuff just at that
под власть Византии, затем сельджуков. В XII веке time. And that it was at that time that the Molokans moved here to live, and
входит в состав Грузинского царства. В XVI веке they taught the Turks how to make cheeses. But, says my uncle, there are no
город завоюют турки, сделав его центром своего Russians left here, the most recent left here twenty years ago in Istanbul.
влияния в Закавказье. Провинцию Карс назы- I look at the city with different eyes. I don't just feel a ghostly connection
вают самой русской из 81 турецкой провинции. to him, I feel a kinship. Suddenly, the street leads to the square, which offers
В 1878–1918 годах она входила в состав России, a stunning panorama of the Kars Fortress. It turns out that the Russian army
называясь Карсской областью империи. Русский has conquered this black beauty three times! And when the Kars region was
период истории Карса, оставивший глубокий formed here after the third Russian conquest, three swords were displayed on
отпечаток на архитектуре и развитии города, its coat of arms against the background of the fortress wall itself.
связан с жившими здесь переселенцами из Рос- … Exactly one year later, at the beginning of February 2020, Olga
сии — молоканами. О них здесь знает и с теплотой left Alanya, exchanging its sun and palm trees for the rather harsh winters
вспоминает каждый местный житель. По Карсско- of Kars. This is Love. And he and Carse have it in common. The Turkish
му договору 1921 года город отходит к Турции, "Petersburg" never ceases to surprise her with new discoveries, share secrets
в составе которой находится в настоящее время.
and memories. In turn, Olga shares them with her guests during walks around
Kars.

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