Page 31 - Журнал «Русский Берег» #8-2021

НЕТИПИЧНАЯ ТУРЦИЯ | ATYPICAL TURKEY RUSSIAN COAST | №8, 2021 RUSSIAN COAST | №8, 2021 НЕТИПИЧНАЯ ТУРЦИЯ | ATYPICAL TURKEY

CHIRALY VILLAGE AT THE FOOT OF CHIMAERA ENG The principle of classical aggressive: aggressive in the sense that
deductive reasoning, which it is ready to stand up for the interests of
is firmly associated in our minds with local residents up to civil disobedience,
Sherlock Holmes, states: what is true but first things first...
ДЕРЕВЕНЬК А for a whole class of things is also true 90 YEARS AGO
IT ALL STARTED
for each and every object belonging to
Чиралы about Turkish resorts in general can since the second century B.C., and
that class. Accordingly, what we know
Although Olympos has been known
be applied to each of them. Multistory
hotel complexes, varied infrastructure,
Mount Chimaera (Janartas) — an
unusual peak on the slopes of which
aquaparks, malls, and so forth, etc. But
natural gas is constantly burning —
the popish deduction can often be false.
There are Turkish resorts, and specifically
village itself is quite young. In late
Turkish resorts, not American or was described by Pliny the Elder, the
У ПОДНОЖИЯ ХИМЕРЫ Australian resorts, that are fundamentally Byzantium and the Ottoman Empire, the
Mediterranean coast of Asia Minor was
different from this picture. On the Lycian
coast of Turkey yet there are places that neglected. The area was swampy. The
are completely unlike any stereotype and modern settlement was founded in the
look like something never seen before. 1930s, but in the early 1970s there were
One of such places is the village of only two families of shepherds.
Cirali, which is located in the heart of In 1972 Cirali became part of the
the tourist sites. Here are the Chimaera newly created national park "Beydaglar".
Mountain, known for its fire coming In 1987, they drained the swamps, then
out of the ground, the ancient cities of the place began to be intensively settled,
Olympos and Phaselis, to which dozens and the first opened hotels were an
of sightseeing buses rush every morning, alternative to the budget youth hostels
the two highways, and finally the city of of Olympos. People who prefer those
Kemer, which is Antalya's second capital. places for vacation, usually called the
But this place has preserved the charm of "hipsters", and they are known to be
wild beaches, one-storey hotels, peace undemanding in terms of amenities,
and harmony with nature. Cirali is a tiny but quite picky. They want good wi-fi,
village. In fact, the village consists of two fresh fruit smoothies, fancy diet food,
intersecting streets — the promenades, etc. They usually are not interested in
on one side there is one of the best jewelry and fur coats. But if the Chiraly-
beaches with sand (which is rare on the based hipsters are prone to a healthy
Mediterranean coast) and the crystal lifestyle, peace and meditation, then
clear water deepened very slowly, and literally 500 meters (on the beach),
on the other — bungalows, restaurants, where Olympos begins, this place is
private homes of local residents. fond of "Rasta men", who seemingly also
It is interesting that the majority of them seek peace with the universe, but quite
are yogis. Here yoga is a local attraction in other ways. And you know, somehow
Соответственно, то, что мы знаем
ПРИНЦИП КЛАССИЧЕСКОЙ о турецких курортах вообще, приме- туристических объектов. Тут и гора пляж с пологим входом, а по другую — like tomatoes for Kumluca, watermelons you can feel it. There are few places on
for Diyarbakir or pearls for Marmaris.
the Antalya coast where gilding, granite
Химера, известная своим огнём, бью-
бунгала, ресторанчики, частные дома
ДЕДУКЦИИ, КОТОРЫЙ нимо к каждому из них. Многоэтажные щим из-под земли; и античные города местных жителей. International yoga festivals and master and shopping are not a priority. Priorities
ПРОЧНО СВЯЗАН В НАШЕМ гостиничные комплексы, богатая ин- Олимпос и Фаселис; к которым каждое Интересно, что подавляющее classes are held here. Cirali is not a very are different here: the caretta turtles, for
СОЗНАНИИ С ШЕРЛОКОМ фраструктура, аквапарки, молы и т. д., утро устремляются десятки автобу- большинство из них — йоги. Йога accessible place, but that is what has example.
ХОЛМСОМ, ГЛАСИТ: ТО, ЧТО и т. п. Но попсовая дедукция зачастую сов с экскурсантами; две скоростные здесь такая же местная достопримеча- allowed it not to become something of THE LONG WAY TO THE SEA
автотрассы; наконец город Кемер —
a plastic "Disneyland" for the public's
тельность, как помидоры в Кумлудже,
может оказаться ложной. Есть турецкие
ВЕРНО ДЛЯ ЦЕЛОГО КЛАССА курорты, и именно турецкие, не аме- вторая столица Антальи. Но это место арбузы для Диярбакыра или жемчуг enjoyment.From the highway D-400 is 7 Sea turtles don't have many natural
ВЕЩЕЙ, ТАКЖЕ ИСТИННО риканские или австралийские, которые сохранило очарование диких пляжей, для Мармариса. Здесь проводятся kilometers of very winding serpentine, but enemies in the wild, except for some
И ДЛЯ КАЖДОГО ОБЪЕКТА, в корне отличаются от этого пред- одноэтажных отелей, умиротворения йога-фестивали и мастер-классы ми- its quality is off the charts. species of sharks. But newly hatched
In general, this part of Turkey has ideal
ОТНОСЯЩЕГОСЯ К ЭТОМУ ставления. На Ликийском побережье и единения с природой. Чиралы — рового значения. Чиралы — местечко roads, and it is a pleasure to drive there. turtles are easy prey for anyone, from
с довольно, прямо скажем, неудобной
Турции есть места, которые совершен-
крошечный населённый пункт. По сути
dogs to seagulls. The most difficult and
КЛАССУ. но не похожи на стереотипы и вообще деревенька состоит из двух пересека- транспортной доступностью, но именно By crossing the border of the village, dangerous stage in the life of a turtle is
не похожи ни на что. ющихся улиц — набережных, по одну это и позволило ему не стать пласти- we cross the state border practically. the first hours of life, when very young
Одно из таких мест — деревенька сторону — песчаный (что редкость ковым «диснейлендом» на потребу In Cirali, the local government is very reptiles, following their instincts, are
Чиралы, находящаяся в самой гуще на Средиземноморском побережье) публике. От трассы D-400 — 7 киломе- strong and very, one might even say, crawling toward the sea. If you reach the
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